Style sheets
Skirts for men: Intro
[2021-08-02] I'm a man and I occasionally like to go out wearing
kilts, skirts and other non-bifurcated garments.
It started in Spring 2000 with
a sarong when I
lived in the UK, and I soon got myself a couple of proper kilts.
Around those times I wrote a rant
called Men's Liberation Front, letting
off some steam about clothing issues. In recent years, my practice has
waned, and I've only worn unbifurcated garments to few occasions such
as SF conventions, or on stage. My earlier work as a teacher also made
wary of appearing too unconventional in public. But this summer, with
the
COVID-19 pandemic, record heatwaves
and other issues, I'm back with my mission to promote
skirt-wearing for men.
This mission is also heavily influenced by the popularization of
burlesque and drag shows, as well as the improved popular awareness of
sexual and gender minorities. People are increasingly understanding
about (assumed) men wearing skirts — as long as it is done for a
cross-dressing show, or due to gender identity issues. In other words,
weird things are easily accepted when we can categorize them away.
But I want to show that even heterosexual cis men can wear skirts
as a part of their everyday casual look.
[2023-11-13] More
on this
In the West, traditional kilts are probably the most recognizable
skirts associated with men. But they can appear too formal or
garish for everyday use. They are also quite heavy and warm, which is
especially bad because the warmer the weather, the more you'd want
ditch trousers
for a skirt. So for now, my particular interest is exploring
lighter and simpler alternatives to traditional kilts.
Skirts for men: Why?
Fun and freedom
There are many possible reasons for men to wear skirts, but I think a
lot of them can be summarized in one word: Freedom. Freedom from
chafing and ball-boiling pants, freedom from pointless societal
norms. To experience both kinds of freedom at once is, well, quite
liberating.
Since you've come to a page about fashion, you probably already know
the feeling of wearing something new and different. Maybe you
remember the excitement of getting your first pair of proper jeans
and showing them off? Now you've lost count of the jeans you've
owned, and they're just another boring piece of cloth. Maybe it's
time for something completely different, with an extra buzz of
really going against the grain. Just look at all the variety of
colours, shapes and materials at women's departments, vs. the
endless rows of black and grey suits at men's; wouldn't it be great
to experience some of that fun side yourself?
Physical comfort and body awareness
The feeling of walking outdoors in a skirt is a joy of life that many
Western men have never experienced. Of course, you can feel the air
when wearing swimming trunks or nothing at all, but those are limited
to certain places and temperatures. A proper kilt can keep you warm
down to near zero, and it can be worn everywhere from the wilderness
to the finest of dinners. From there on, you can expand to lots
of other skirt styles, depending on temperatures and formalities.
Compared to trousers, skirts make an interesting combination of
covering and exposing your legs. You can feel the light pat of pleats
and the changes in temperature at every step, with extra random
elements introduced by wind.
It is a sensual thing, and unfortunately, a lot of men confuse that
with sexual. To put it bluntly, it's possible to feel good somewhere
between your stomach and your knees, without it being sexual.
That said, there is an erotic element to men in skirts, and some women
find them quite hot. But if we aim to increase the acceptance of men's
skirts as an everyday thing, better keep it casual and leave the
fetish side to private settings. Spread awareness, not legs.
[2021-09-08] Sensuality is really all about being connected to your
own body. I have always liked long walks, and I now realize how well
skirt-wearing fits with the feeling of walking out in the
open. When you start wearing skirts, you are bound to learn something
new about your body, and perhaps appreciate it a bit more.
In fact,
a lot of hikers
swear by kilts/skirts, as they allow your legs their most natural
movement, as well as providing the best cooling and cover in hot,
sunny weather. But they are probably on to something deeper and
subtler about their body awareness.
Besides walking, though, a somewhat surprising comfort benefit appears
when sitting — more on that below.
Philosophy and equality
Wearing skirts as a man can also be a way to promote equality.
People
will see arbitrary gender-based walls breaking down and realizing
their world doesn't end, mirroring what happened with women going to
work and wearing trousers. Also, as a skirted man, you will see the
world in a new light, and not always in a better way. As people gawk
at your exposed thighs, you might get a better idea of what it's like
to be a woman. You may even feel like you're in a sexual or gender
minority, as some people will struggle to categorize you.
Historical justification
[2021-08-09] A lot of clothes that we today associate with women were
originally meant for men. For example:
- Gladiator sandals
- Kilt-like skirts — women's garments were usually ankle-length to
cover the legs.
- Tunics — these seem rather unisex across history, but in
some cases the word refers specifically to military
jackets. Similarly, German "Rock" now means "skirt", but it also
seems to have a background in military clothing.
Isn't it time we showed the world we're men and took back what is
ours? Of course, by taking back I don't mean we should exclude
anything from women. They have all the fashion freedom and they
deserve it —
don't we?
Tips for men in skirts
Choosing manly skirts from women's selections
[2021-08-01] A lot of companies now make modern and traditional
variants of kilts, which of course is awesome. But you can find a lot
of "women's" skirts that happen to be very kilt-like or otherwise
suited for men. Thrift stores are a great way to look for them and
save a lot of money, which is especially important when you're testing
things out.
Of all the clothing items, skirts are probably the easiest for finding
a nice fit across gender lines: there's really only one measurement to
match, the waistline. Most other clothes involve multiple measurements
and assume certain proportions between them to define a single size
number. So generally only loose-fitting clothes will make nice unisex
items.
Length
Knee length is a safe bet. The traditional test for kilt length is
that, when you kneel down, the hem should be close to the ground but
not quite touch it. Some sources use 60 cm or 24 inches as the
standard kilt length; to me that feels a bit too long, but of course
it depends on your body and how high on the waist you wear it.
I wouldn't get anything longer than kilt length, unless it's a
sarong-type wrap cloth or otherwise very non-kilt-like; long and heavy
skirts look slouchy and restrict your movement.
Somewhat shorter is probably OK, especially when you get used to
exposing more of your legs. "Knee length" can mean noticeably
shorter than the standard kilt length, perhaps around 50 cm, and
it can still look quite kilt-like.
You may be able to shorten a longer skirt. With denim, you can just
cut it and let it fray for a nice rough look.
Pleats
Men are used to a wider range of mobility than what is usually
possible with skirts. Traditional kilts with a lot of pleats and a
wrap-around design are the brute-force, foolproof solution.
However, there are also subtler pleating designs with much less
material overall. For example, skirts that look like shorts when
viewed from front/back, with pleats hidden in the splits (box
pleats). In my experience, these have plenty of mobility, for example
for walking up stairs, two stairs per step. The shorts-like look can
also be a bonus compared to kilts.
Solid profiles / A-line
Even with no pleats or open wrapping, there is a wide range of skirt
widths, from pencil to A-line. The latter usually means a soft, smooth
material that isn't particularly manly. But somewhere in between, I've
found some skirts with enough mobility for most uses while having a
solid look.
[2021-09-07 ] Besides mobility, a certain level of flaring out is good
for the kilt profile: it makes your waist look thinner, which in turn
makes your shoulders look wider. This depends on the material,
though; too wide and stiff, and you end up with a tutu.
In particular, denim seems to have issues with A-line, and most denim
skirts seem to be either pencil or pleated. A-line denims often have a
button front all the way down, presumably to add weight to compensate
for the stiffer fabric. I think it goes quite far from the kilt look,
but might be worth a try anyway.
Split hems
A lot of women's skirts have a back slit, which is nice when you're
walking behind a woman wearing one, and you get to see a bit more of
the legs than you expected. As a man, I prefer to keep my clothes
simple and solid. I would also avoid anything that splits noticeably
above the knee, to avoid unintended flashing.
Slits also have a mechanical disadvantage due to the way they
concentrate forces, creating a higher risk of tearing. This is
particularly unfortunate as slits are often introduced to increase
the range of mobility.
If you nevertheless end up with slits in your skirt, side slits are
probably safer than front/back. I also think they fit the manly
kilt/tunic look much better.
Details and style
Besides kilt-like skirts, I usually go for denim and cargo/outdoor
styles for a rougher, down-to-Earth look. These still have a lot of
variation, for example some can be very short, but at least it narrows
down the search. Pockets are good, especially down on the sides.
I find belt loops quite important, as a belt helps complete that kilt
profile. So far I've found one skirt that manages without them, as it
has other nice kilt-like details, such as slanted rows of buttons on
the front sides.
Traditionally, men's garments open towards the right, and women's to
the left. But you can find a lot of right-sided items in women's
departments too, so you can still tick this one masculinity box. I
wouldn't worry too much about this, though, especially with small
parts such as the front zipper.
By the way, front zippers seem to be a lot shorter in women's
clothing, presumably because they need not open all the way down for
toilet business. This can make dressing feel more difficult at
first. (For business #1, you can often just lift the front of the hem
and finish faster/cleaner than the guys in pants.)
With wrap-around clothes, the direction is much more prominent,
especially in kilts with fastening straps. So if you're looking for a
proper kilt, make sure it's right.
Fabric weight
Men are used to thicker and more protective layers of clothing,
probably in part due to anatomical reasons: a thin silky wrap will
make your front bulge exposed, both visually and mechanically. So
thicker and heavier fabrics such as denim are a safer starting point.
But don't let this limit your options too much. A lot of cargo/outdoor
skirts have surprisingly thin material, while feeling quite rough and
keeping their form.
Dresses
[2021-08-07] For that manly look with clear waist and shoulder lines,
this is a tough one. I haven't yet found a dress I'd be comfortable
wearing in the public, except one sleeveless cargo/hoodie dress that
found its place in a rave. For more casual uses, I'm still focused on
kilt/skirt styles, though I do have some ideas.
Due to different body proportions, it's hard to find a women's dress
that fits a man's waist and shoulders at the same time nicely. The
vertical distance between shoulders and waist is also longer in
men. Fortunately, some dresses can be adjusted. For example, shirt
dresses are generally loose-fitting and the waistline is created with
a belt. For men, this could make a nice "casual Roman" look. There
may be belt loops that are at the wrong height, but you can ignore
them, and perhaps remove them altogether.
Sleeveless is one solution to the shoulder width issue, but only a
partial one in my experience. The rave dress I mentioned is loose on
the hips and tight on the chest. For more room upstairs, I'm currently
on the look for overall/dungaree dresses. Besides the increased chest
space, the adjustable straps help with the the waist-shoulder distance
issue.
Traditional overalls have that "working man" look, and you can find
overall dresses that maintain that idea quite well. They have a clear
waistline, possibly with belt loops. Unfortunately, I also see a lot
of items named "overall dress" that have devolved very far from that
idea, with only shoulder straps as the common denominator.
[2022-01-28] I've recently got a new knee-length hoodie dress that
works nicely
in winter
temperatures under my long overcoat. The style was inspired by
@manwithskirt. The
aforementioned sizing issues do apply, and the dress is fairly tight
around shoulders, but I think it actually highlights my male body
proportions in a good way. I've also been testing a fairly long denim
overall dress; I'm not quite happy with the overall profile, but in
the winter that can be fixed with a sweater on the top.
[2023-11-11] Besides hoodie dresses, I've lately gotten more into
denim dresses that look mostly like shirt dresses or long shirts. Like
hoodie dresses, I mostly wear these in the winter, with leggings; to
me, the idea is that it's just a long shirt, so I wouldn't wear it
with bare legs. It's a rather unisex idea, very far from the "man in a
dress" cross-dressing stereotypes, so I think it's a promising avenue
for expanding men's styles without going into typical women's.
What and how to wear with skirts
Top half
For a good kilt profile, your waistline should be clearly visible. So
tuck your shirt in and wear a belt if possible.
For extra layers, try to find a sweater/hoodie etc. that maintains
this profile. Typical "men's" variants are usually too long; I've
found a couple of "women's" hoodies that fit nicely above the
beltline. Of course, don't worry too much about this when you're
trying to stay warm. A loose, woollen sweater over a kilt is a
traditional sight, with the two parts melding into a kind of casual
dress.
Underwear
Wear it. Going regimental doesn't make you any truer a Scotsman. Women
generally wear something under their skirts; men have a larger risk of
flashing if they don't, and it might get them in legal trouble.
Another practical point is keeping your skirt cleaner and reduce the
need for washing it. Even if you're perfectly clean after bathroom
business, you'll still have the sweat and grease from all the skin
contact. While this is considerably less compared to trousers and
their crotch parts, it's still quite real, especially when sitting.
Modern underwear is already quite soft and thin,
so it won't ruin the sense of freedom you get with skirts.
Of course, it all depends on the place and company — for
example, if you're out in the woods hiking in scorching heat, it might
make a lot of sense to go without.
Make sure your underpants are in a decent condition. Consider how
they look in case of accidental flashing; black is generally
the least noticeable, and it seems to be the norm in Highland
dancing. Also, if your underpants are too loose and fall off, there
won't be any trousers around to keep them up.
Shoes and socks
With legs exposed, I like to have some boot-like height in my shoes,
as it makes a smoother continuum between the foot and the leg. Proper
boots are awesome with skirts, but they can be quite heavy and warm
especially in the summer. You can use nice long socks to further
extend the boot and smooth out the transition. Knee socks also help
with regular shoes to make the overall look a bit more boot-like.
Football socks are a good, simple and cheap option for knee-high
socks, especially in the summer as they are not too hot.
Accessories and jewellery
[2021-08-09] I'm not big on accessories in general, but with
manskirts, they might help add that extra touch for a manly look. If
you're wearing the clothes of a Roman or Celtic warrior, you could
add some metal or leather to complete the look. A bit of extra
roughness helps with those people who need to categorize everything;
I'd rather be mistaken for a punk/metalhead than a
transvestite.
Some kind of a bag is usually necessary, as skirts don't generally
have good pockets. I'm used to wearing a bag all the time, as I
don't like big and heavy stuff in my trouser pockets either. A bag
might even help keep the skirt down in heavy wind if it hangs low
enough (cf. sporran).
Bags are also a part of your look, so try to find something that
doesn't feel too feminine. I once bought a women's purse and swapped
the thin shoulder strap for a belt.
Sitting in a skirt
[2021-09-10] You may hear snarky comments about sitting with your legs
crossed. You can either ignore them or point them to pictures of men
in kilts with all levels of manspreading. The front of the kilt will
hang between your thighs and cover you just fine. Of course, with
other skirts it depends on the amount of loose material, but the
general idea is the same.
You only have to worry about this if you have a tight pencil skirt,
which is not the most practical kind for men anyway. In that case I
would simply keep my knees close together; due to differences in the
pelvic structure, crossing the legs doesn't work as nicely for
men. And if things go awry, you still have your underwear, right?
You might need a little extra care when sitting for other reasons,
though. With kilts and other pleated skirts, it is a good idea to
straighten the pleats
as you sit, to avoid crumpling them under you. This also helps
keep your thighs from touching where you sit, so it is a good practice
with any skirt. It might help if you sit lightly on the edge of the
seat, and then move backwards as you sit down properly, so the seat
takes care of this.
With some skirts, it may also help if you pull the sides of the
backside outwards, so as to get more material for the front
cover. Just don't spread it all over the sides where someone else
might sit.
Skirts may actually be more comfortable for sitting than trousers.
In the latter, the waist-crotch distance is fixed, and it
gets compressed when sitting, especially with a good upright
posture. Slim-fitting trousers will choke your stomach as well as your
balls, because there's nowhere to move. Why a skirt helps is twofold:
first, your genitals can take all the space they need. Second, the
skirt itself can move up a bit, loosening the beltline. With trousers,
I'm used to the idea that tighter fitting means worse sitting
conditions, but with skirts, even quite tight can be quite
comfortable. To put it another way, a tight skirt is never tight on
the inside, only on the outside.
Coping with cold
[2021-09-25] As outdoor temperatures drop to +10 °C and below, I
have turned to leggings to stay warm. On the top I use either a
sweater or a long leather coat.
To me, leggings make much more sense than pantyhose, as I wear proper
knee socks on top anyway. They are probably also easier to find in
men's sizes and shapes. So far I have only used pantyhose-like
materials around 100 denier, which makes them opaque. Thin/sheer
doesn't really make sense unless you shave your legs. Aesthetics
aside, leggings will flatten your leg hair and reduce their natural
warming effect, so thin leggings may actually make you colder than
going without.
While thicker skirts such as kilts are warm, they can get quite heavy
to walk with leggings due to the increased friction. Long overcoats
make this worse as they add weight on top of the skirt, and they also
have their own friction issue when moving against the skirt.
Of course, this depends on the material. A decent coat should have a
somewhat slippery lining, and glossy leggings are not just for looks
(although I prefer the matte look myself). Some skirts also have
such a lining, and there are also underskirts/slips if you want to
get fancy. But it also helps to choose a lighter/shorter skirt. It
seems counterintuitive, but look around — you don't see many
women wearing long skirts in the winter.
While you can read all about it, and perhaps consult your female
friends, there's no way around real-life testing to see how each
skirt/material works for you. I recently donned a long denim kilt with
leggings and the coat for a night out, and while I'm usually the
fastest walker in a group, this time I was the one holding others
back. The next day I tested a golf/sport skirt instead, and it was the
lightest walking experience I recall ever having with that coat; it
basically worked like a slip between the leggings and the coat.
[2023-11-11] These days I wear quite a lot of dresses during the
winter, mostly hoodie/sweater or denim shirt dresses. They have a
number of benefits for the cold weather. First, they are just warmer
per se, as they cover more of your body in one piece. They can also do
this without being tight around the waist, which is great when you need
more layers for warmth; layering won't help as much under
compression. You could even wear such a dress over trousers —
it's just a long shirt.
Weathering wind
[2021-10-12] Besides the cold alone, wind can pose its own little
challenges to skirt-wearing. The issue of clingy leggings only gets
worse when wind is pushing the layers together on one side. So it pays
to note the above tips about layering for warmth. Short and simple
skirts will also have a smaller area pushing against the wind, which
helps reduce all of its effects.
Traditional kilts can also behave badly in wind regardless of
temperature. There's a lot of soft material in the pleats that can
stick between your legs as the wind pushes on one side. The
wrap-around construction only makes this worse, depending on the
direction. Conversely, a solid non-wrapping skirt with not too many
pleats or slits will stay put quite nicely. This also means it is a
better shield against the wind.
Of course, these are not huge problems, as people don't stop wearing
skirts entirely on windy days. For example, one day I was out walking
and I felt the wind messing the look of my traditional kilt, but at
some point I just decided not to care. Later during that walk I got
compliments about my attire, which is a very rare thing around
here. Still, it is good to think about these things especially if
you're going on a longer walk.
General points
Casual manskirting is a question of balance. You'll want to leave a
positive impression, so that people get a good vibe about men wearing
skirts. At the same time, you'll need to keep it down to Earth and
stay approachable; if you want to set an example to other men, don't
make it too hard to follow.
Keeping it fun and enjoying other options
[2021-08-06] Manskirting can be stressful and exhausting. You may find yourself
spending a lot of time and energy on it. But remember that it is about
having fun, so don't overdo it. Take vacations from skirting, and from
fashion in general.
An important point of this mission is expanding your options. Once you
have worn skirts, you'll also see trousers in a new light. You may
even have a better appreciation for their benefits, such as protection
against the elements, or how they show the form of your thighs all the
way up. You can make an informed decision to wear trousers, instead of
just blindly assuming that's all you have.
I have a lot of days when I need to go out but I don't want to draw
any attention. But on the better days, it's great to have the option
to express yourself in clothing. It seems to me that a lot of men
don't feel like they have that option — but since you've read
all the way here, I'm guessing you do :)
[2021-10-12] As the weather gets cold and windy, I must admit that
skirt-wearing gets less fun. As you start wearing leggings and
whatnot, you lose some of the feeling of freedom. There's the
physical sense of having more layers and barriers, but putting on
those extra layers may also feel like a chore. I don't particularly
enjoy the pantyhose-like leggings I now wear with skirts outdoors;
they are fine out there, but as I get back home, I feel the need to
take them off. But maybe the thicker and softer options for the
winter proper will feel nicer?
Further reading
Sites and projects
Gender and equality
Skirts and hiking
Other articles
- Lanarkshire
schoolboy, 7, dresses in girls' clothes and his proud mum says he's
an inspiration
- Hameisiin
pukeutuva Topi, 26, haluaa rikkoa normeja (in Finnish)
- Usva Kiuru, 18, on
hameeseen pukeutuva mies, eikä hän ole ainoa: ”Mukava,
käytännöllinen ja tyylikäs” (in Finnish)
- It’s
Official: Men Are Shopping for Skirts More Than Ever Before
- Brad
Pitt dared to wear a skirt on the red carpet!
- Harry
Styles can get away with wearing a skirt. But can I?
- Miesten
hameet osana arkipukeutumista: Länsimaalaisen miehen suhtautuminen
miesten hameeseen, Iina Torhola 2019. (Finnish, Bachelor's
thesis about casual manskirting, includes English
summary)
- Vox Clamantis in
Deserto A blog on men's skirts and other issues that
challenge the norm
Skirts for men
Hosiery
Risto A. Paju
